This UST stuff though is bead locking on a whole overbuilt level. I have them and love them. A bead hook is entirely unnecessary. Tires don't burp because the bead lifts up, they burp when the bead is pushed inward. The Derby's have a shoulder that keeps the bead securely against the rim wall.
All of which I've used. Should be 34 internal width. The rim walls are 3mm thick. Hookless rims were normal fare decades ago, hell tubular rims have have no rim sidewalls at all supporting the tire and its some glue and air pressure alone that holds them tight. Clincher rims only acquired the bead hooks with the move to running narrow high-pressure road tires on them in place of tubulars among professional and amateur racers alike.
For the pressures encountered and used in mtb tires, the hook really doesn't do much if the tire fits the bead seat diameter spec properly. WAKIdesigns Oct 8, at They were also not riding lightweight tubeless ready tyres. The question is whether hookless rim can hold a light casing tyre, run tubeless in such situation.
Maybe it can as you say, maybe hook does not help much indeed, I'm just wondering. It would be awesome news, as it would cut some weight right away. You would more than likely need to run a UST tire on a modern hookless rim, in most cases. I could roll it off if I over inflated it or pushed it hard. I could unseat it on the rear just by pumping a corner.
If it's a larger diameter bead and non UST, a hookless setup has nothing to keep it from rolling off. Hookless is a big step backwards in that case. But for UST tires, the toleraces are so tight, shouldn't be an issue. I know this much, if I was inflating a non-ust tire on a hookless, I'd have earplugs in, they just blow off the rims. You got there ahead of me oldschool "Being a bike mechanic for a long time, I've come across different sized beads on standard non-UST tires.
Personally cant really see any argument FOR hookless rims. Thing is, the proprietary 1ply UST tyres suck. In most cases they are at least g heavier than really good Tubeless Ready tyres and provide no cut resistance or stability increase. Their casings are made from softer rubber, so it is actually easier to slash or pierce them, Than the most average tyre. Recent development in TR tyres is one of the best things that happened to tyres in recent years, defo more signinficant than 3c compounds.
Hook does one more negative thing than just weight, that is it makes the inner width narrower at same given weight. Maybe raised rim bead like on ZTR rims neutralizes the problems you guys talk about? I'd love to see few more companies like ZTR, Syntace, Specialized, sticking their neck out with developing "weird" wheels We should be getting this kind of research in wheel department from industry side, not that stupid "intermediatization" and optimization like new wheel diameter.
Hope we have choices for years to come About the ZTR design, you need a hook to hold the tire in there. The Derby has it on the inside, with a flat inside wall. Like right now, I'm running a Maxxis 2.
It sits a bit loose in my WTB tubeless rims. I haven't tried to run that tire tubeless. I've run some actual tubeless tires or tubeless ready tires in that wheelset.
Anyway, my mtb tires take more side loads and off angle pressures than my old bmx rims took. Every other weekend, I had to let the air out of the bmx tire, cuz it would unseat itself. The reason people have been able to run psi in their 2. I'm pretty sure if I threw that tire or my other non-TR Maxxis and Kenda tires in the Derby rims, they would roll off, unseat, blow out.
That was lots of interesting stuff, I think everyone who read it got a lot smarter in that department thanks man! Derby Rims and the hookless specialized rims have no problems running standard tires tubeless. You'd have to seriously stretch the bead to the point it would fail on a hooked rim to get it over the edge of the rim. That's not going to happen on any decent modern tire. Albe23 Oct 8, at Argument for hookless rims: Easier to make carbon rims Hadn't thought of that, but yeah hooks must effectively make your rim a good few mm narrower.
I am all for wider rims. I must say I tend to agree with Albe I know often you have to push the tyre into the well in the center of the rim to get the other side off, and this is unlikely to happen out on the trail with pumped up tyres, but when I'm running a tyre at 25psi and really pushing the tyres through a g-out corner, well I'm all for as much security as possible, and if that means an extra few grams of rim weight and as Waki points out, a marginally narrower rim if the external measurment stays the same , then I guess I'll just have to put up with that.
Perhaps it is time for a post-UST standard. Maybe, even Mavic might be persuaded to go along with a superseding standard if it built on rather than completely discarded the existing UST standards. Just rim tape and sealant. Havent had any issues yet. What this guy said. UST is unnecessary. Long live Stan's Flows - wide, light, strong. I had s and they were the easiest tire to set up tubeless I've had. That said, my flows are pretty good floor pump and I've only had trouble when the bead was really dirty.
I rolled an EXO minion off with the front wheel air to landing into a corner. The floppy sidewall of the minion deflated instantly and I went down really fast and hard. Happened to me twice while within 2 weeks of converting to this. I may try the Jared Graves "ghetto tubeless setup next year, but tubeless EXO is a bad idea, the sidewall is just not stiff enough, if you burp it just goes completely. MTBHammer Oct 8, at I run this setup as well and love it.
It is important that you check the pressure each ride. In every case where the tire burped, it was because I had not checked the pressure and was too low. I tend to run a few psi more in EXO Minion tires to keep the squirm down. FYI I have run across tires with defective beads.
These have resulted in temporary loss of hearing and interesting Stan's spray patterns. Always check the bead! Run what you want, just be warned that an EXO doesn't burp, the sidewall just deflates because the sidewall is too soft. I have burped a 2ply DH many times and it's not a big deal because it has enough sidewall strength to still hold not lose all the air at once.
Tires: TK 2. On my last Whistler trip I managed to get a 'pinched' flat near the bead too many fire road section due to tail closing , which sealed right away once I added stans back was dry - by comparison my group got about 8 flats tubes so I did much better. Bike also a lot lighter. Tubeless is not all rosy. Starting to think UST bead an rim might have prevented 2 crashes for me so far.
I had a while back, but never bothered with UST Much happier with Flow EX. Having used mavic and stans ztr, i will stick with the lighter weight of the ztr. Only ever 1 issue with ztr rims which was the conversikns fault, if i had used the rubber insert rather than the rim strio there would have been no issue with loosing air, but possibly an issue with the 2 spokes going somewhere else that broke and punctured the rim strip Having burped many tyres on and rims, taccoed the rims, stripped out the inserts, I know where my money sits.
Also tbe rim is far too stiff, you need some flex intbe rim when riding hard ish lol. Burls72 Free Member. Edit : Should have mentioned that lust is also a tubeless tyre. IanMmmm Free Member. Pauly Free Member. Lightweight Ultimate Sidewall Technology. Northwind Full Member. See offer details for disqualifying products and destinations.
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