Insert and clean off excess as you squeeze action into final position. I tape mine together at this point. After 4 hours I take it all apart to make sure I have no locks built in that will prevent it from comiing apart forever.
After clean-up, I reassemble and tape together for 24 hours to make sure its fits perfectly. Note: After initial assembly, bolts will have to be removed to disassemble. Again, watch tutorial, its perfect.
If all you do is the pillars then you can't be sure that the recoil lug is taking all the force from shooting as it is supposed to do. If all you do is bed the action then you can't be sure the stock isn't being compressed when you assemble the rifle. If you do both then you have less to worry about concerning the fit of the action to the stock. When I bed a rifle I do at least pillars and recoil lug.
Usually I go ahead and do the entire action if I've gone to the trouble of prepping for a bedding job. I think your best bet would be to go ahead and do both since you have the time on your hands. If you follow the tutorial and do it right, I don't think it could do anything but help I've ordered the pillars and bedding kit I've got time on my hands, I'm having back surgery for the 3rd time on the 8th and am going to need something to do for a few weeks Thanks, I just hope the rifle shoots as well after I do this I've taken more than 30 head of Muley bucks and 3 elk with the I don't want to mess it up If it somehow were to make it less accurate, you could pick up a replacement stock for it and be back at square 1.
Let us know how it turns out! I will, I try and shoot every Saturday, but I'm going to be out of action for a month or so That should give me the time to finish bedding the rifle Originally Posted by cgeorgemo If all you do is the pillars then you can't be sure that the recoil lug is taking all the force from shooting as it is supposed to do.
As above, you need to do both if your stock doesn't already have metal pillars in it. The cd appears to be complete, even down to a very slick CD presentation The only thing I don't see is a release agent, I understand shoe polish or paste wax can be used, libereally, then buffed???
Most products call for coating the part with "release agent". I always used this product and applied it with a Q Tip. Pretty much slathered it on as I was paranoid about getting the stock "glued" to the action. Now I notice that "the big boys do exactly that Go figure.
But that ain't for the likes of you and me. If you get an action epoxied into a stock you can get it out by carefully heating the action to or degrees to "burn" the epoxy but not de-temper the action and lift it free. Check the brand of epoxy you used to see what it's max working temp might be then exceed that.
Better than hacking the stock off then chiseling the epoxy from the receiver The thickness of the release agent negates the bedding. A couple thousandths is "slop" and that ruins everything The best method will be to get a uniform coating of releasing agent of the thinnest possible Buff the heck out of it using a durable paper shop towel or cotton rag.
Paper is better as it's firmness will flatten the wax coating instead of scrubbing it out of cracks and crevices and the joining of metal parts. Your recoil block should be free of epoxy contact in all surfaces "except" the rear facing one. Nor Cal Mikie has described his method as being done in two steps.
First he installs the pillars as per normal. The action is spaced from the wood by wrapping it with a few turns of electrical tape to cause the action to stand "proud" of the wood. That will establish a clearance between the wood and action and after the pillars are set you remove the tape and epoxy the action allowing the pillars to set you uniform clearance. Most do both bedding operations simultaneously and in one step but I use Mikei's method and I find it easier and more accurate.
Why would I want to save time on a labor of love? If you're getting a Deluxe Bedding Kit, it should come with a small jar of release agent at least it used to. It is really, really good stuff, and yes, buff it with a paper shop towel. Good luck with both your recovery and your project. Dan, My kits never came with instructions to buff the release agent down with a paper towel. They seemed to want me to get a "thick coat" on their to prevent the possibility of adhesion.
They will only use Devcon epoxy to bed anything. They are really anal about both points. I agree with you that if the release agent can be buffed there will be no difference between the outcome using that process and Kiwi shoe polish.
I was blind I think that I'am ready, willing and able to do both types of bedding I'll let you know how things are coming and how it works out As far as release agent is concerned, I've always used TurtleWax paste wax and put nice thin coat over the action and on the screws.
I have another observation, are there horror stories regarding the "Bedding", either the pillar or glass I see the chance of someone bitting off more than they can chew Removing wood, drilling holes, cleaning up bedding compound Watch the tutorial. I woried about me doing it the first time. So I broke the action out at 4 hours out of In the long term, the standard glass bedding job, without aluminum pillars, can never offer the same degree of accuracy, of strength, and of stability, which is available with aluminum pillars.
In the short term, and in fact, the immediate weakness of that standard glass bedding job is that the receiver was pulled right back into contact with the same bedding surface that had been the problem all along.
Two things allowed this to happen: 1. A receiver which bends much more easily than people realize. The "Bed Heads" installation process is designed specifically to deal with the action flexibility described above and in Gunsmithing Odds and Ends 1 Step 1 of this process allows you to epoxy the aluminum pillars in place while they are in perfect alignment with the receiver, and while the receiver is under no stress.
Once your pillars are epoxied in place under these conditions, your accurate foundation is in place, and the receiver will no longer be bent when the guard screws are installed and tightened. Step 2 of this process is the application of epoxy in a way that maintains the precise, full contact, stress free, support of the receiver. Whether your stock is solid wood, laminated wood, fiberglass, or fiberglass with an aluminum block in it, the receiver is the same.
The receiver offers it's most uniform results, most consistent accuracy when it has the most uniform, and stress free, support. The farther that support for the receiver strays away from the guard screws, the more leverage there is available to bend, or stress the receiver when the guard screws are tightened. Maybe, we could even provide support entirely around the circumference of the guard screws.
Pillars, maybe? In closing, I will include some numbers from Engineer's Edge on the net. They illustrate how efficient your guard screw threads are at converting a small amount of rotational torque into a surprisingly large amount of clamping force. Glass Bedding Vs. In a stock of wood or fiberglass, you must first install a solid foundation. For the least amount of stress in your action. Shop Online. Trigger Springs for Rifles.
Gunsmithing Odds and Ends. Aluminum Pillar Bedding Kits. Also, I think of the wood stocked rifles that I have handed back to customers over the years, while making predictions, based on grain layout, of how their stock would, or would not warp. These stocks need pillars. Laminated stocks are less prone to warp, but are more prone to expand or contract based on moisture content.
If you use one during a rainy hunting season, and then your rifle sits unused through a hot and dry summer, be sure that you re-tighten those guard screws before sighting in again. You may be surprised at how loose those screws can be, and they are loose, because last years moisture has now evaporated, and the stock has shrunk.
These stocks also need pillars.
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